🏠 Stuff Every Homeowner Should Know: Training Guide

Radon gas

Radon is a radioactive gas that comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil. It can enter any home through cracks and holes in the foundation. The Surgeon General warns that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer, after smoking, and it affects non-smokers too.

EPA recommends testing all homes below the third floor. A short-term test stays in the home for two to 90 days. A long-term test runs more than 90 days and gives a better picture of the year-round average because radon changes by day and season.

Place a radon test kit on the lowest lived-in level, in a room used regularly such as a bedroom or living room. Keep it at least 20 inches above the floor and away from drafts, high heat, high humidity and exterior walls. Do not put it in a kitchen or bathroom.

For a two or three day test, close outside windows and doors at least 12 hours before starting and keep them closed as much as possible during the test. Do not run fans or machines that bring in outside air, but fans in a radon reduction system are fine.

EPA says to fix the home if the radon level is 4 picocuries per liter or higher. Levels below 4 still have some risk and can often be reduced. A radon reduction system can cut levels by up to 99 percent, and you should retest every two years.

Lead paint in older homes

About three-quarters of U.S. homes built before 1978 still have some lead-based paint. Paint that is in good condition is mostly safe, but peeling, chipping or worn paint on friction surfaces such as doors and window sills can create dangerous dust.

EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule generally covers paid work, not homeowners working on their own pre-1978 home. EPA still recommends lead-safe practices for do-it-yourself jobs because dust can be dangerous.

If you cannot determine the age of your home, assume the area you are renovating has lead-based paint. Before sanding, scraping, drilling or cutting old paint, mist the area with a spray bottle to keep dust down. Wet-dry sandpaper, a HEPA vacuum and low-temperature heat guns under 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit also help.

Mold and moisture

All indoor molds need water or moisture to grow. Dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold. Keep indoor humidity between 30 and 50 percent, and below 60 percent. Condensation on windows, walls or pipes is a sign of high humidity.

If visible mold covers less than about 10 square feet, you can often clean it yourself. In most cases, sampling is unnecessary because no federal limits have been set. Hard surfaces can usually be scrubbed with detergent and water.

Do not paint or caulk over moldy surfaces. Clean and dry the surface first, because paint applied over mold is likely to peel. Porous items such as ceiling tiles and carpet may have to be thrown away if they become moldy.

EPA does not recommend chlorine bleach as a routine mold cleanup practice. Scrubbing with detergent and water is the standard approach. Biocides may be considered in special cases, such as when immune-compromised people are present, based on professional judgment. Do not run a heating or cooling system if you suspect it is contaminated with mold.

Asbestos and tight-home risks

Pea-size, flaky gray attic insulation called vermiculite may contain asbestos. Do not disturb it unless it has been tested by an approved lab. Walk only on joists or truss chords in an attic, not on exposed drywall or insulation.

Sealing a home or ducts can cause combustion appliances such as water heaters to backdraft, creating unsafe indoor conditions. A tight home may also trap radon, carbon monoxide and other pollutants, so a professional should check before you seal tightly. Extra mechanical ventilation may be needed.

Smoke and heat alarms

The two common smoke alarm types detect different kinds of fires. Ionization alarms respond one way, photoelectric alarms another. The U.S. Fire Administration recommends both types, or dual-sensor alarms that combine both.

Interconnected alarms are safer because when one sounds, they all sound. A fire far from your bedroom may not wake you without this feature. Wireless alarms can connect without wires.

Never take the battery out of a smoke alarm while cooking. Open a window or door, press the hush button, wave a towel, or move the alarm several feet from the kitchen.

Use a heat alarm in an attached garage, not a smoke alarm. Heat alarms should be rated for 175 to 250 degrees F, hard-wired by a qualified electrician, and not placed near fluorescent lights.

Fire sprinklers and extinguishers

Smoke alarms plus home fire sprinklers reduce the risk of dying in a fire by about 82 percent. Home sprinklers are sensitive to heat and only the sprinkler above the fire sprays.

A Class C fire extinguisher is for electrical equipment because its agent does not conduct electricity. Look for a UL Listed or ULC Listed label and choose the largest extinguisher you can safely handle. Multipurpose A-B-C or B-C extinguishers cover several fire types.

GFCIs and AFCIs

A GFCI protects against shock by watching the current. If the current going out differs from the returning current by as little as 0.006 amperes, it cuts power faster than a blink.

AFCIs protect against fire hazards from arcing and sparking in wiring. GFCIs address shock hazards. Combination devices provide both kinds of protection.

Ordinary household fuses and circuit breakers do not respond to early arcing and sparking. By the time they open the circuit, a fire may have begun. Panels may be upgraded with AFCIs by a qualified electrician.

The National Electrical Code has required GFCI protection in bathrooms since 1975, according to CPSC. Outdoors came in 1973, garages in 1978, and kitchens in 1987.

Panel and breaker care

Many home electrical panels have a main breaker that cuts power to the whole home at once. Know where it is before an emergency.

At least once a year, flip each circuit breaker off and on three times so it does not stick. Turn off the freezer, refrigerator and air conditioner first because repeated power interruptions can damage compressor motors.

Label each circuit clearly enough to tell it apart from every other one. A label like 'outlets' on ten breakers is not enough, but 'kitchen counter outlets' is. Wrong-size fuses can let too much current flow and overheat wiring.

Finding and stopping leaks

A toilet flapper is a rubber part that wears out. Replace it at least every five years. An old flapper can make a toilet run or leak thousands of gallons a year without a sound.

Drop food coloring in the toilet tank. If color appears in the bowl after 10 minutes without flushing, the toilet is leaking. Flush right away afterward so the dye does not stain.

Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is used. If the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak. A faucet dripping once per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons per year.

Check in-ground irrigation systems each spring before use. A leak just 1/32 inch wide can waste about 6,300 gallons a month. Replace garden hose washers and use pipe tape on leaky connections.

Water heater and pressure

CPSC urges all users to set water heaters to 120 degrees F to help prevent scalds. Most adults get a third-degree burn from 150 degree water in two seconds. Always hand-test water before bathing a child.

Flush a tank water heater once a year, after turning off the power supply, to remove sediment. Check the temperature and pressure valve at least once a year.

Home water pressure works best between 45 and 60 pounds per square inch. Check with a gauge on an outdoor hose bibb with all water use off. Have a professional adjust pressure much above that range.

Wells and water quality

Test a private well once a year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH. Test more often if there are children, older adults or pregnancy, or after floods and repairs. Use a laboratory certified for drinking water testing.

Basements, freezing and ice dams

In a 1-inch rain, about 1,250 gallons of water fall on the roof of a 2,000-square-foot house. Slope soil away from the foundation, keep gutters and downspouts working, and use an airtight sump pit cover. A dehumidifier treats symptoms but is not a permanent fix.

In very cold weather, let cold water drip from a faucet fed by exposed pipes. If you leave home, keep the thermostat no lower than 55 degrees F. Outdoor faucets and pipes in unheated areas are most vulnerable.

If a pipe freezes, wrap it or the faucet in rags and pour hot water over them until water flows. Never use an open flame or electric device. After thawing, remove wet rags and wrap the pipe with dry insulation.

Ice dams form when heat from the house melts snow unevenly on a roof, and the water refreezes at a colder edge. That trapped water can leak into walls and ceilings. Attic air sealing and insulation help prevent them, and wet areas should be dried right away.

Routine heating and cooling care

Inspect, clean or change the furnace or air conditioner filter once a month. A dirty filter raises energy costs and can cause early equipment failure.

Schedule cooling checkups in spring and heating checkups in fall, before contractors get busy. A typical checkup includes tightening electrical connections and checking the condensate drain. A plugged condensate drain can cause water damage in the house and affect humidity.

EPA does not recommend cleaning air ducts routinely, only as needed. Duct cleaning has never been shown to prevent health problems, and a light amount of household dust in ducts poses no known risk. Inspect and service fuel-burning furnaces, stoves and fireplaces before each heating season.

Ducts and airflow

In a typical house with forced-air ducts, about 20 to 30 percent of the air moving through the system is lost to leaks, holes and poor connections. This raises bills and makes rooms hard to keep comfortable.

Seal accessible duct leaks with mastic sealant or metal tape, then insulate ducts in attics, crawlspaces and unfinished basements. Never use ordinary duct tape because it does not last.

Airflow problems can reduce an air conditioner's efficiency by up to 15 percent. Cleaning and adjusting blower components helps provide proper airflow and comfort.

Air sealing and insulation

In the attic, air seal first, then insulate. Insulation slows heat flow, but air leaks let warm or cool air sneak around it. Sealing first helps the new insulation do its job.

EPA estimates that air sealing plus adding insulation saves homeowners about 15 percent on heating and cooling costs on average. A home with low insulation could easily have bills 10 percent higher than a well-sealed, well-insulated home.

R-value measures how well insulation resists heat flow. Higher R-value means better thermal performance. In the northern U.S., minimum attic insulation is about R-49, or 16 to 18 inches. In the southern U.S., it is about R-38, or 13 to 14 inches. If attic insulation is level with or below the floor joists, you probably need more.

For window and door trim, use caulk for gaps a quarter inch or less. Test a window by closing it on a piece of paper; if the paper slides easily, the seal is loose. A lit incense stick can show leaks when its smoke is pushed near seams, but never use it near curtains or other flammable materials.

Efficient equipment and controls

An air-source heat pump moves heat instead of burning fuel to make it. It can deliver up to three times as much heat energy as the electrical energy it uses, and one system heats and cools.

Consider replacing a heat pump or air conditioner when it is older than 10 years, needs frequent repairs, or no longer keeps rooms comfortable. Installed correctly, high-efficiency units can save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling costs.

Geofencing on a smart thermostat uses your phone's location to set back heating or cooling when you leave and restore comfort as you return. Many smart thermostats also learn your preferences and set an efficient schedule.

ENERGY STAR certified downlight fixtures use about 90 percent less energy than traditional models using incandescent bulbs.

Escrow and mortgage insurance

A mortgage escrow account usually pays your property taxes and homeowner's insurance when those bills come due. Lenders can require a cushion of two months of escrow costs.

Private mortgage insurance, or PMI, protects your lender if you stop paying, not you. It is usually required on a conventional loan with less than 20 percent down.

You can ask to cancel PMI when your balance is scheduled to reach 80 percent of the home's original value. Ask in writing. Even if you never ask, PMI generally ends automatically at 78 percent, if you are current on payments.

HOA dues are usually not included in your monthly mortgage payment. You pay the homeowners' association directly, so count them when you decide what you can afford.

Points, ARMs and closing

One mortgage discount point costs 1 percent of the loan amount. Paying points at closing lowers your interest rate. A half point on a $100,000 loan is $500.

On an adjustable-rate mortgage, after the initial period your new rate is the index plus the margin. The margin is set in your loan and does not change after closing. Caps limit how much the rate can move.

Lenders must give you the Closing Disclosure at least three business days before you close. Use that time to compare it with your Loan Estimate.

After signing most refinances or home equity loans on your home, you can cancel within three business days. This right is called rescission and you must cancel in writing. For this rule, business days include Saturdays but not Sundays or legal public holidays.

HELOCs

A home equity line of credit has a draw period, when you can borrow up to your limit, followed by a repayment period. After the draw period ends, monthly payments often jump significantly.

Most HELOCs have a variable interest rate, so payments can change. Some let you convert part of the balance to a fixed rate.

A HELOC is secured by your home. If you fall behind, you could lose the home to foreclosure. Consider it only if you are confident you can keep up with payments.

Insurance, taxes and disasters

If you let homeowner's insurance lapse, a lender may buy a policy and bill you, but that policy may only protect the lender and can cost more. You can shop for your own homeowner's insurance provider.

Standard homeowner's insurance does not cover flood damage. A separate flood policy, such as one from the National Flood Insurance Program, usually takes effect 30 days after purchase. Nearly one-third of NFIP claims come from outside high-risk flood areas.

A standard NFIP homeowner flood policy covers the building up to $250,000 and belongings up to $100,000. Flood insurance is required in a Special Flood Hazard Area with a government-backed mortgage. Federal disaster aid after a flood often comes as loans that must be repaid with interest.

A married couple filing jointly can exclude up to $500,000 of gain from selling a main home, or $250,000 for other filers, if they owned and lived in the home at least 2 of the last 5 years. Improvements add to your tax basis, but repairs do not. Keep improvement records until 3 years after the sale-year return is due.

In Texas, the usual deadline to protest a property's appraised value is May 15 or 30 days after mailing, whichever is later. Other states have different rules. A home warranty is a service contract for appliances and systems, not the same as homeowners insurance.

Hiring and paying contractors

After a disaster, scammers use scarcity tactics such as limited time only deals or rising prices to rush you. Stop, think and investigate before you agree. Government employees will not generally ask for payment or financial account numbers.

Do not pay in full up front. Wait to make the final payment until the work is done to your satisfaction. Be extra wary of wire transfers, gift cards, virtual currency and cash.

FEMA does not charge for home inspections, disaster assistance or help filling out applications. FEMA representatives carry a laminated photo ID.

Before heating or cooling work starts, sign a written proposal that includes costs, model numbers, job schedule and warranty information. Compare written, itemized estimates because the lowest price may not be the best deal if equipment is less efficient.

For insulation work, confirm the contractor is licensed and insured in your state and the crew is trained. The contractor should agree to seal attic holes and gaps before adding insulation.

Permits and code rules

In Fairfax County, Virginia, unpermitted construction rules still apply even after a house is sold and years later. Buyers should check permit records. Building and trade permits are required by Virginia law.

Fairfax County warns that insurance may not cover damage or loss of a structure built without proper permits. Permits and inspections help catch fire, shock and structural problems, although passing inspection is not a safety guarantee.

Yard and drainage care

For a typical Midwest lawn, keep grass at 3 inches or higher. Cut no more than one third of the grass blade in a single mowing. Taller grass shades weed seeds and grows longer roots.

Leaving grass clippings on the lawn does not cause thatch. Clippings break down quickly and add the equivalent of one fertilizer application each year. Thatch comes from excess nitrogen, vigorous grass types, infrequent mowing and compacted soil.

Water an established lawn once a week or less, deeply, to grow drought-tolerant roots. Water in the morning so more water soaks in. Rain sensors and smart controllers can keep sprinklers from running when the soil is wet.

Slope soil next to the foundation away from the house, 1 inch per foot for 6 feet. Downspout extensions or splash blocks should discharge water at least 4 feet beyond the foundation wall.

Plant large trees such as oaks and maples at least 20 feet from walls and other trees. Small trees can go 8 to 10 feet from walls, and medium trees at least 15 feet.

Seasonal maintenance and safe digging

Clean rain gutters about twice a year, in spring and early fall, plus any time they clog. If trees surround the house, consider gutter guards, but still check the gutters now and then.

Test a sump pump by pouring water into the pit until the float starts the pump. The pump should turn on and off at least twice. If the pit is dry, lift the float for about 10 seconds to see if it runs smoothly.

Call 811 a few business days before any digging, including planting trees and shrubs. After utility locators mark the yard, try not to dig on top of or within 18 to 24 inches on all sides of the marks. If marks wash away or expire, ask for a re-mark.